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Jester
Leyster, Judith
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Harlequin Seated
in a Cafe
Picasso, Pablo
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The Battle Between Carnival and Lent
Corbis Collection
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Mardi Gras 2006... 28 February!
Carnevale in Brooklyn
Every year, Tommaso’s restaurant
stages an old-fashioned Italian feast
By Tom Maresca and Diane Darrow
Saveur No. 64 Jan/Feb 2003
“Last year we celebrated
Carnevale, the traditional pre-Lent farewell to the flesh, not by dancing in the
streets of Venice or Rio or New Orleans, but by going to dinner at an exuberant
Italian-American restaurant in Brooklyn. Tommaso’s, a fixture of the community
for more than 30 years, hosts a series of lavish dinners
that hark back decades,
to a time when most people really did fast for Lent and
truly did indulge
themselves beforehand.
…The moment we stepped into the restaurant, we were wrapped in the warmth of
Naples: there was a huge, gleaming baroque copper espresso machine on the bar
and a vast array of artisanal grappas behind it, old family photographs on the
walls, and Tommaso himself – burly, bearded Thomas Verdillo, monumental in a
flouncy black-and-white Pagliaccio costume and floppy red jester’s hat,
enveloping us in a bear hug. Instantly the waiters covered our table with
antipasti: grilled, roasted, marinated, and stuffed vegetables; fresh mozzarella
and aged provolone; bread studded with pork cracklings; salami, anchovies,
olives, breadsticks, and more.
Hot antipasti followed: baked clams, fried
calamari, mussels marinara, fried mozzarella sandwiches; baked, stuffed, and
sauced hot vegetables; and cotica – meltingly tender pork skin stuffed with
walnuts, pecorino, parsley and raisins,
then braised with cabbage and cotechino
sausage. We didn’t choose; we got it all. And this was only the beginning.
Tonight we were guests in a Neapolitan home,
and the family honor would not let
us leave until we were as effectively stuffed as
the pork skins.
“I opened the
restaurant as an extension of my home. It is my kitchen
and my dining room, and the customers are my guests.”
~ Tommaso
…Next, the menu. We settled on rigatoni and
pasta e fagioli (pasta
and bean
soup), which is so good that visiting Italian winemakers have been
known to take containers of it back home. It was agony having to reject the minestra napoletana (pasta, beans, pork and escarole soup), and the lasagne di
carnevale, interleaved
with pork, beef, sausage, meatballs and cheese, but Tommaso dropped off a
portion of lasagne so that we wouldn’t miss it.
Then the secondi began to stream past: stuffed chicken breast; veal rolled in
pancetta; three kinds of sausage; and breast of pork carnevale, fragrant with
cloves, cumin and honey. And roast suckling pig…
…Mostly we basked in a glow of well-being. The dual purpose of Carnevale had
been gloriously achieved: family honor had been satisfied, and it would be very
easy to fast the next day.”
Braised Breast of Pork with
Cabbage
Serves 6
“Tommaso’s calls this dish breast of pork carnevale. The
cut of meat
is found most easily in small butcher shops, especially Italian ones.”
For the pork:
2 cups sugar
1 cup kosher salt
6 whole cloves
4 bay leaves
5 pounds skinless breast of pork with ribs attached
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1/2 small yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
8 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes
3 cardamom pods
1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup honey
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup dates, pitted and chopped
2 tablespoons chopped parsley leaves
For the cabbage:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
5 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1/4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 head Savoy cabbage, cored and sliced crosswise
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. For the pork: To make the brining solution,
put sugar, salt, cloves, bay leaves and 4 cups water into a medium pot and boil
over high heat, stirring often, until sugar and salt dissolve, about 5 minutes.
Transfer solution to a wide bowl and et aside until completely cool. Add pork,
cover, and
refrigerate for 2 days, turning every 8 hours.
2. After 2 days, drain pork, pat dry, and set aside. Preheat oven to 550 degrees
F. Heal oil in a large, wide heavy pot with a tight-fitting lid over medium
heat. Add garlic, celery, onions, sun-dried tomatoes, cardamom,
red pepper,
cumin, turmeric, and black pepper to taste and cook, stirring often, until
vegetables soften, 5-8 minutes. Remove pot from heat; add
pork, fat side up, and
spread honey and brown sugar on top. Transfer pot
to oven and roast pork,
uncovered, until top begins to caramelize, about 10 minutes. Reduce oven
temperature to 300 degrees F. Remove pot from
oven and stir in stock and
vinegar. Cover pot and braise pork in oven until very tender, about 3 hours.
Transfer pork to a cutting board, cut into large pieces, then arrange
on a warm platter. Loosely cover with foil and set aside.
3. Skim off fat from sauce in pot, then boil sauce over medium-high heat
until
slightly thickened, 8-10 minutes. Strain sauce, pressing on solids with back
of spoon, into a saucepan. Stir in dates, cover, and keep sauce warm over lowest
heat.
4. For the cabbage: Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add
garlic, red pepper flakes, and fennel seeds and sauté for about 10 seconds. Add
cabbage, salt and black pepper to taste, and 1/4 cup of the warm sauce. Cover
and cook, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is soft, 15-20 minutes.
5. Spoon warm sauce over pork, garnish with parsley, and serve with the cabbage.
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Drunken
Pork Shoulder with Cabbage and Pears
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