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Kazu's Pork

"Part of the secret of success in life is to eat what you like
and let the food fight it out inside."
~ Mark Twain

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Cabbages
Johann Wilhelm Weinmann
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Kazu’s Pork
The Daniel Boulud's Cafe Boulud Cookbook
by Daniel Boulud and Dorie Greenspan, 1999, Scribner

“Kazuhisa Tamura is a sous-chef at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo who, for six months, lived in New York and worked at café Boulud as part of a culinary and cultural exchange program. We often have cooks from other countries in our kitchen, and we always learn a great deal from them, have fun, and, as part of
the fun, eat well, as we did when Kazu cooked his traditional ‘tonkatsu’ for us. ‘Tonkatsu’ is a pork cutlet accompanied by a spicy tomato sauce. The pork for the dish is cut from the tenderloin, deep-fried, sliced into thin cutlets, and, in this version, served with two sauces. The sauce for the pork is as American sounding
as my French sauce diable – in keeping with the original it’s made with ketchup
and Worcestershire sauce and given a tangy edge with the addition of apple and onion. The second sauce, meant to be tossed with lots of crisp shredded cabbage,
is a light, cool blend of soy sauce, rice vinegar, and ginger. Assembled, the dish
presents a lively mix of textures and plays up the always-appreciated contrast
between foods sweet and salty.”

makes 6 servings

the cabbage and its sauce:
1/2 medium head Savoy cabbage, trimmed, cored, and finely shredded
1/2 cup peanut oil
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 onion, peeled, trimmed, and chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped peeled ginger
Salt and freshly ground white pepper

1. Soak the cabbage in very cold water for 30 minutes, then drain and dry
in a salad spinner.
2. Put the oil, vinegar, soy sauce, onion and ginger in the container of a blender and whir until the sauce is smooth. Season the dressing with salt
and pepper and then toss it with the cabbage; set the cabbage aside for
the moment.

the pork sauce:
2 teaspoons peanut oil
1/2 onion, peeled, trimmed, and thinly sliced
1/2 apple, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
5 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons ketchup
3 tablespoons sugar

Warm the oil in a medium sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until it is softened, about 5 minutes. Add the apple
to the pan and cook, stirring, until it is cooked through and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer the onion and apple to the container of a blender, add the remaining ingredients, and purée until smooth. Set this aside to use
as a dipping sauce for the pork.

the pork:
3 cups (approximately) peanut oil, for deep-fat frying
2 pounds pork tenderloin, cut into slices 6 inches long by 3/4 inch wide
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Flour for dredging
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
Fresh bread crumbs, preferably panko, for dredging

1. Pour the oil into a deep stockpot or casserole, place the pot over
medium heat, and heat the oil to 350 degrees F, as measured on a
deep-fat thermometer.
2. While the oil is heating, season the pork with salt and pepper, dredge it
in the flour, tapping off the excess, dip it into the eggs, and then dredge it
in the bread crumbs, again tapping off the excess. Working in two batches,
slip the meat into the hot oil and deep-fry for 8 to 10 minutes, until the crumbs are golden brown and the pork is cooked through. Drain on paper towels to remove any excess oil.

to serve: Cut each piece of pork on the bias into slices about 1/2 inch thick. For each serving, pile a mound of cabbage just off the center of a large plate and lean the pork slices against it. Spoon some of the pork sauce around the plate and pour the rest into a small bowl to serve on the side.

to drink: Japanese beer