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Penne con Tonno

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La Belle Cuisine

Penne con Tonno
(Penne with Fresh Tuna, Capers,
and Black Olives)

In Nonna's Kitchen: Recipes and
Traditions from Italy's Grandmothers
by Carol Field, 1997, HarperCollins

Serves 8 as a first course, 4 to 6 as a main course

“This is such a quick recipe, says Laura Mansi Salom, that the most time-
consuming step is going to the market to buy the fish. Be sure to use the
best tuna you can find. Choose brined black olives, such as small Ligurian
or Niçoise olives; but don’t use Gaetas or kalamatas, because they are very
salty – and please stay away from tasteless California black olives. The
simplest way to pit the olives is to set them on a cutting board and press
down on them firmly with the side of a cleaver. That loosens the flesh
and makes it easy to pull out the pit.”

2 pounds (about 4) large ripe tomatoes or
1 (28-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes, drained
2 1/2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon minced fresh hot red
pepper or red pepper flakes
3/4 teaspoon chopped fresh sage
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
3/4 teaspoon finely chopped fresh marjoram
1/4 cup capers, preferably salt-cured,
well rinsed and well drained
1/3 cup drained black olives in brine, pitted
1/2 pound fresh tuna fillet, cut in bite-size chunks
At least 4 quarts water
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
1 pound imported penne or rigatoni pasta
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
10 leaves of fresh basil, roughly torn

Peel and chop the tomatoes roughly and put them and the olive oil in
a large sauté pan. Warm briefly over medium heat. Add the minced
pepper, sage, rosemary, marjoram, and capers and cook for about 15
to 20 minutes. The sauce can be made ahead to this point. Add the
olives and raw tuna and simmer just until the tuna is cooked through,
about 4 to 5 minutes.
Meanwhile bring a large pot with at least 4 quarts of water to the boil,
add the coarse salt and the penne, and cook according to the pasta
maker’s instructions. Drain, reserving some of the cooking water in
case the pasta seems dry.
Spread the penne on a warmed serving platter. Pour the sauce over
the top, mix it in, add pasta cooking water, if necessary, and finish
with the finely chopped parsley and the torn basil on top.

Capers (Capperi): Capers are the small unripe buds of a plant that grows
wild around the Mediterranean basin, climbing into tiny clefts and minute
openings in stone walls and cliffs. Capers come in two sizes: tiny nonpareils,
which are usually bottled in a vinegar brine, and a much fatter variety that
is often preserved under salt. The finest capers are collected on the islands
of Sicily, such as Pantelleria, and kept under salt. They must be soaked in
cold water for 15 minutes and then rinsed before they are used, but they
truly taste of caper and add immeasurably to a dish, while the brined
variety may taste strongly of the vinegar in which they are preserved.
Keep salt-preserved capers in the refrigerator and you will have them
for up to 2 years.
 

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