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Beard on Food: The Best Recipes and Kitchen Wisdom from the Dean of American Cooking
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La Belle Cuisine
Italian
Meatballs and Sausages
with Rigatoni
Mimi Sheraton in
The James Beard Collection
by the James Beard Foundation, edited by
Barbara Kafka, 1990 Wings Books
Alibris
“Mimi
Sheraton is one of America’s best-known reporters and cookbook
authors.
There is almost no area of the food world in which she has not
been
brilliantly active…”
“Jim
Beard and I were more colleagues and neighbors than close friends and,
as
such, I worked with him on
several projects at Restaurant Associates and
met him often in food markets in
Greenwich Village. I remember Jim best
from those meetings, because his
presence at Balducci’s or at the Jefferson
Market meat counter always
created a festive atmosphere for all shoppers. It
also satisfied
them because
they felt justified in their choice of markets. How
could they not, when
America’s leading gourmand and bon vivant made the
same choice?
“For me, Jim Beard’s strong point was his appreciation of the simplest and
most humble dishes and the way in which he accorded them the respect of
using
only the best ingredients and handling them with care. In that same
spirit, I
offer this recipe for meatballs with sausages and rigatoni, the kind
of dish I
would have served to Jim had he ever come to dinner. It is also
very
good with
polenta instead of pasta.”
2
1/2 pounds lean ground chuck
2 eggs
Grated rind of 2 lemons
1 clove garlic, crushed in garlic press
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons finely minced parsley
3 tablespoons unseasoned bread crumbs
Salt and pepper
1 1/2 pounds hot Italian sausage
1 1/2 pounds sweet Italian sausage with fennel
2 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 large cans Italian plum tomatoes (each
2 pounds 3 ounces),
drained and
chopped, with liquid reserved
1 large onion studded with 8 cloves
5 or 6 sprigs of parsley
Tomato paste to taste, optional
1 tablespoon dried oregano, or to taste
5 or 6 leaves fresh basil
2 1/2 pounds dry rigatoni cooked al dente
in
boiling, well-salted water
Optional garnishes: minced parsley, grated Parmesan
cheese,
and Italian hot red pepper flakes
In
a large bowl, using a fork, combine room temperature ground beef
with eggs,
lemon rind, crushed garlic, cheese, minced parsley, bread
crumbs, and salt and
pepper to taste. Mix well but do not make this
mixture too dense
and compact.
Lightly shape into 10 or 12 large
meatballs and set aside.
Cut
the sausage into 1-inch lengths. Heat 2 or 3 tablespoons olive oil in
a large
heavy skillet and in it fry sliced garlic for a few seconds until it
is pale
golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and place in a large Dutch
oven or similar
pot. Add sausages to pan and brown well on all sides,
adding oil if needed,
and turning pieces so they brown evenly. Place
sausages in pot with garlic.
Brown
meatballs in skillet, adding only as many as will fit without touch-
ing each
other. Turn gently with a wooden spatula until brown in all sides.
Place
meatballs in pot with sausages. Pour excess oil out of skillet and
add
chopped, drained tomatoes. Simmer and scrape in all bits of browned meat.
Pour
tomatoes over meatballs.
Add
clove-studded onion to pot, along with sprigs of parsley and oregano. Simmer
gently, half-covered, for 1 hour, shaking pot frequently to prevent scorching.
Gradually add salt and pepper as cooking progresses. If sauce is thinner than
you want it to be, gradually stir in tomato paste, a teaspoon at
a time,
simmering for 5 minutes between additions, until you have the right
consistency. If the sauce is too thick, thin gradually with reserved tomato
liquid. Add the basil leaves for the last 5 minutes of cooking time.
Before
serving, remove the onion and cloves, along with sprigs of parsley and
basil
leaves.
Divide
hot, cooked rigatoni into individual bowls (I use old-fashioned wide soup
plates) and top each with one meatball and a few pieces of sausage. This
amount allows for seconds for the hungry. Sprinkle with parsley and
pass
grated cheese and hot pepper. Serves
6 to 8.
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