Peaches
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Roger Vergé's Peaches
or Pears Poached
in
Pepper
and Bay Leaf-Scented Wine
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"The value of those wild fruits is not in
the mere possession
or eating of them,
but in the sight and enjoyment of them."
~ Henry David Thoreau
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Heritage, Still Life with Peaches
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La Belle Cuisine
Les
pêches ou poires au vin de poivre
et de laurier
(Peaches or Pears Poached in Pepper and
Bay Leaf-Scented Wine)
Roger Vergé's New Entertaining in the French Style
by Roger Vergé, 1997, Stewart, Tabori & Chang
“The wine
and Port give white pears a beautiful brilliant
purple color
and a complex fragrance.”
Preparation: 25
minutes
Cooking: 20 minutes
Ease: Easy
Cost: Moderate
Yield: 6 servings
Ingredients:
2
cups (500 ml) red Port
3
cups (750 ml) red wine
2
teaspoons black peppercorns
Peel
of 1 lemon
1
vanilla bean
5
bay leaves
5
tablespoons flower honey
12
vine peaches or 12 Williams pears
Shopping: Choose a
wine rich in tannins and with a deep color, for
instance
a young Bordeaux, or
other wine from the Southwest [of
France], such as young Cahors.
It is preferable to use fresh rather than dry bay leaves. They release
a
stronger, cleaner aroma, and do not crack as easily during cooking,
so
are
more attractive when served.
Vine peaches are not easily available, and can be replaced with very
fragrant
medium white peaches.
At
least 2 hours ahead: Pour the port and wine into a large saucepan.
Put the
peppercorns into a square of cheesecloth, gather the ends, and
tie
them to
form a sachet. Put sachet in the wine along with the lemon
peel, vanilla bean,
and bay leaves. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat,
add
honey, and cover.
Put
the peaches in a saucepan of boiling water for 2 minutes, then
immediately
submerge them in cold water and peel. (If you have
chosen
to make pears, peel
them, keeping the stems attached.)
Just
after peeling, put the fruit in the still-hot wine, and cook over
high
heat. At first boil, lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
Take the
pan off the
heat, cover, and set aside to cool.
Squeeze
the liquid from the peppercorn sachet into the wine and
stir to
blend. Discard
the sachet. Put the fruit and its cooking liquid
in a bowl.
Retrieve
the bay leaves and stick tem on top of the
peaches or pears as
though they
were leaves. To decorate the
peaches, cut the vanilla bean
into
12 sections
and stick the
pieces into the tops of the peaches as
though they were stems.
Store
the fruits in a cool area, but not in the refrigerator. The
flavor of
the
pepper combined with the port will give a
refreshing enough impression.
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