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Thai-Marinated Beef with Rice Noodles (cont.)

 

 

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Asian Flavors
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Thai-Marinated Beef with Rice Noodles (cont.)
Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten
In Julia's Kitchen With Master Chefs icon
by Julia Child with Nancy Verde Barr, 1995, Alfred A. Knopf

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Jus-Rôti
(Light Roasted Chicken-Wing Broth)

“Many of our contemporary chefs are making this light broth out of chicken
wings, or duck wings. Or meat scraps, and so forth. Chef Jean-Georges favors
it particularly for his Asian-style dishes and uses it with much of his food
since he feels it is lighter than a formal brown chicken stock.”

Ingredients for 2 cups, reduced to 1/2 cup

3 pounds chicken wings, chopped into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and cut in eighths
1 whole head of garlic, unpeeled, cut horizontally in half
1 stalk of lemongrass
1 slice of unpeeled ginger root
About 3 cups water

Special Equipment Suggested:
A cleaver (for chopping up the wings)
A large ovenproof sauté pan or frying pan
(for browning and for roasting in the oven)

Manufacturing Note:  Jean-Georges’s broth calls for flavoring his wings not
only with onions and a whole head of garlic but also with a touch of the Far
East – lemongrass and ginger. Other chefs will use other flavorings instead,
like carrots, celery and leeks. Whatever the flavor items, the general procedure
is the same…

Place the rack in the upper middle position and preheat the oven to 500 degrees F.
Pat the chicken wings dry in paper towels, film the pan with the oil, and
set over moderately high heat. Sauté the wings, tossing and turning, until
lightly browned – 6 to 8 minutes. Set the pan in the preheated oven and
toast for 30 minutes, tossing and turning several times to brown evenly.
Stir in the onion, garlic, lemongrass, and ginger; roast another 15 minutes.
At this point, pour the contents of the pan into a colander to drain off the
fat. Return the ingredients to the pan and add enough water to cover them
- 3 cups or so. Return to the stove and simmer for 30 minutes, skimming
any fat off the surface. Strain into a clean saucepan, skim thoroughly, and
reduce (boil down) to 1/2 cup.

Ahead-of-time Note:  The stock will keep for a few days under refrigeration,
or may be frozen.

 

Red Chile Purée

“This is an aggressive raw chile purée. Chef Jean-Georges chops the peppers
up, seeds and all, which gives the purée extra fire. He uses it atop his Thai-
Marinated Beef
to add color and heat to the dish. Anytime your recipe calls
for a purée of red chiles, this is certainly it! But keep in mind that a little
dab goes a long way, so use it with caution.”

Ingredients for 3/4 cup

8 fresh Thai finger chile peppers
1 large garlic clove
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar or rice vinegar

Note: You can find both ready-made raw and cooked chile purées
in some specialty food stores.

Place all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and purée to a
paste. Refrigerate in a covered jar, where it will keep for several weeks.

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Featured Archive Recipes:
Chicken Pad Thai
Craig Claiborne's Hunan Beef
Thai-Style Shrimp Salad with
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