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La Belle Cuisine
The subject
of Sauerbraten ranks right up there with
gumbo,
potato salad,
red
beans and
rice and fried chicken on the controversiality scale. Just ask any
German
Hausfrau what the proper way is. Her way, of course, using a recipe
passed
down through the generations. That will vary from family to family, as
well as from village to village and state to state. A
Bavarian Sauerbraten is
not
the same as a Rhineland Sauerbraten. Etc.
We are quite fond of the recipe
below, but decided anyhow to have a look
at
Mimi Sheraton’s German Cookbook: A Complete Guide to Mastering
Authentic German Cooking (which, over the years, has become our pre-
ferred authority on German cuisine). It pleased us to find that her Sauer-
braten recipe is very close indeed to the
one we had
chosen to publish.
(You are wondering how many we have in our
files, right? Well, would
you
believe 7? As of today. We were looking for THE
Sauerbraten
recipe,
of course.)
The primary difference in the two is that
Mimi’s Rheinischer Sauerbraten
uses vinegar and water for the marinade. No
wine at all. Hmm... I know for
a fact that
my ex-sister-in-law, who lives
in a tiny village just a few kilo-
meters from the
banks of
the Rhine, uses
wine for her most excellent
Sauerbraten. That is
good enough for me. But I digress... Here is what
Mimi
Sheraton has to say
on the marvelous subject of Sauerbraten:
“Next to
frankfurters and sauerkraut, Sauerbraten is Germany’s most
famous
food
specialty. Every cook and every province has a different
version of this
dish, but in my travels, none compared to the Sauer-
braten found along the
Rhine. Its distinguishing characteristics are
the white raisins and the
velvety, golden-brown, sweet-sour sauce that
bears absolutely no resemblance
to the
watery, vinegar-sharp gravy
served in German and Austrian restaurants
in
the United States.”
Ja wohl!
I’ll drink to that!
Sauerbraten
Gourmet Archives
3 cups dry red wine
1/2 cup red-wine vinegar
1 onion, sliced
1 carrot, sliced
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 bay leaves
10 peppercorns
3 whole cloves
2 juniper berries
[We add 1 tablespoon pickling spices.]
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
3- to 3 1/4-pound boneless lean beef
chuck roast, rolled and
tied
[We prefer a rump roast.]
2 tablespoons oil
2 onions, sliced thin
1/3 cup golden raisins
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons red-wine vinegar
2 gingersnaps, crushed
In a stainless steel or enameled saucepan combine the red
wine, 1 cup
water, the 1/2 cup red-wine vinegar, 1 sliced onion, carrot,
garlic, bay
leaves, peppercorns, cloves, juniper berries and thyme. Bring
liquid to
a
boil and simmer the mixture, covered, 15 minutes. Let marinade
cool.
In a deep bowl pour marinade over the roast, adding more water if
necessary to barely cover the beef, and let beef marinate, covered
and
chilled, for 2 to 4 days.
Remove the roast from the marinade, pat it dry, and strain
the marinade through a fine sieve into a bowl, reserving solids and liquid
separately.
In a large stainless steel or enameled casserole brown the roast
in the oil
over moderately high heat and transfer it to a plate. Add the 2
sliced onions
to the casserole and cook them over moderate heat, stirring,
until they are golden. Add reserved marinade solids and cook mixture,
stirring, 2 minutes. Return beef to casserole and add enough of the reserved
marinade to reach halfway up sides of beef. Bring liquid to a boil and
braise beef, covered, in preheated 300-degree F. oven 2 hours 45 minutes, or until
the meat is
tender when pierced with a fork. Transfer beef to a platter and
keep it
warm, covered loosely. Strain cooking liquid through a fine sieve
into a
bowl and skim the fat.
In a small bowl let the raisins macerate in 1/3 cup of the
liquid, reserving remaining liquid, for 15 minutes.
In casserole melt 2
tablespoons unsalted butter over moderately low heat,
stir in the flour and
sugar and cook the
roux, stirring, until it is golden
brown. Add the 3 cups
reserved cooking liquid
in a stream, whisking, and
the raisin mixture, and
bring liquid to a boil over moderate heat, whisking
constantly. Add the 1
1/2 teaspoons red-wine
vinegar or to taste, and
reduce the liquid over high
heat, stirring, to about 2
cups. Stir in crushed
gingersnaps and simmer
the mixture, stirring, 2
minutes, or until sauce is
glossy and thickened
slightly. Discard strings
from beef, slice beef thin,
and arrange the slices
on a heated platter. Nap slices with some of the
sauce and serve remaining
sauce separately.
Serves 6.
[Don't forget the Kartoffel Kloesse and German Red Cabbage!]
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Bavarian Sauerbraten
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Schnitzel, Kaiser
Schnitzel , Zigeuner
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