“A
stroll through the dining room of Mistral in Boston can transport you to
Provence; the exposed brick, antique furnishings and fixtures, and
custom-
made chandeliers deceive the eye, and Chef Jamie Mammano’s
masterful
French-Italian cuisine completes the illusion. It is Pastry Chef
Joanne
Chang who brings you back to the States, with this affectionate
makeover
of the perennial Italian favorite: airy, flavorful layers of milk
chocolate
whipped ganache, mascarpone mousse, chocolate shavings and
chocolate
cake, its espresso flavor enhanced with Kahlua. A drop-dead
pick-me-up.”
Yield: 8
parfaits
Preparation: 1 hour and 10 minutes, plus baking and chilling times
Sponge
cake:
4 large eggs, separated
2/3 cup granulated sugar, divided
1/4 cup hot brewed espresso
1 cup all-purpose flour
Mascarpone
mousse:
6 large egg yolks
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup Kahlua, or other coffee-flavored liqueur
Pinch of salt
1 cup mascarpone cheese
1 cup heavy cream
Milk
chocolate whipped ganache:
6 ounces milk chocolate, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
Pinch of salt
2 teaspoons instant espresso powder
Sugar
soaking syrup:
1/4 cup hot brewed espresso
1/3 cup Kahlua
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
Garnish:
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, grated
Chocolate-dipped cigarette cookies
Make the
sponge cake:
1. Preheat
the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a 10 1/2-inch x 15 1/2-inch
jelly roll pan with
parchment paper, cut to fit. Lightly spray the parch-
ment paper and sides of
the pan with vegetable spray.
2. In a 4 1/2-quart bowl of a
heavy-duty electric mixer fitted with the
wire whisk attachment, heat the 4
yolks, 1/3 cup of sugar, and
espresso until thick, about 6 to 8 minutes.
3. In a large
clean bowl, using an electric hand mixer or wire whisk, whip
the egg whites
until soft peaks form. Gradually add the remaining 1/3 cup
of sugar.
Continue whisking until the whites are thick, glossy and stiff.
4. Using the
wire whisk from the heavy-duty electric mixer, carefully fold
1/3 of the
whites into the yolk mixture to lighten. Then fold in the rest
of the
whites. Sift the flour on top and gently fold in. Spread the batter
evenly
in the prepared pan and bake in the preheated oven for 6 to 8
minutes. Cool for
5 minutes and invert onto a wire rack, peeling off the parchment paper.
Using a cookie cutter or biscuit cutter, cut the sponge
cake into 2-inch
circles (4 circles per serving). Reserve.
Make the
mascarpone mousse:
5. Place a
small amount of water in a large bowl and throw in a handful
of ice;
reserve. Place the egg yolks, sugar, Kahlua and salt into a medium bowl and
set the bowl over a pan of simmering water. Using a hand-held mixer, beat on
medium speed until the mixture is thick and holds a ribbon. The mixture must
be cooked until it reaches 140 degrees F and then held
at that temperature for 3
minutes. The whole cooking time will be approximately 10 to 12 minutes. Take
the mixture off the heat and
cool completely over the ice bath, whisking
occasionally.
6. In a large
bowl, using a hand-held electric mixer, whip together the mascarpone and
heavy cream until the mixture holds peaks. Fold the
cooled yolk mixture into
the mascarpone cream mixture to combine
and then refrigerate.
Make the
milk chocolate whipped ganache:
7. Place the
chopped chocolate into a medium bowl. Place the heavy
cream into a pan and
bring just to a boil. Immediately remove it from
the heat and pour over the
chocolate. Add salt and espresso powder
and whisk gently until the chocolate
is melted. Cover and refrigerate.
When the mixture is completely cold, just
before assembling the
parfaits, using a hand-held mixer, whip until soft
peaks form.
Make the
sugar soaking syrup:
8. Combine
the espresso, Kahlua, sugar, and water in a medium
saucepan. Heat all
ingredients until the sugar is dissolved; cool
and reserve.
Assemble
the parfaits:
9. Place the
mascarpone mousse and milk chocolate ganache into
pastry
bags fitted with
1/2-inch plain tips. Pipe about a table-
spoon of mascarpone mousse into the
bottom of the parfait
glasses.
10. Sprinkle
about a teaspoon of shaved unsweetened chocolate on
top
of the mousse.
11. Dunk a
sponge cake circle in the soaking syrup and lay on top of
the mousse.
12. Pipe
about 1 to 2 tablespoons of milk chocolate ganache onto the
sponge cake
circle, sprinkle with another teaspoon of shaved chocolate
and top with
another soaked sponge cake circle. Repeat layering with mascarpone,
chocolate, cake, whipped ganache, chocolate and cake.
Top the parfait with a
thin layer of mascarpone mousse and a generous sprinkle of chocolate. Cover
with film wrap and refrigerate until ready
to serve. Garnish with
chocolate-dipped “cigarette cookie”.