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Volcano
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Chocolate-Coffee Volcano
How to Be a Domestic Goddess: Baking and the Art of Comfort Cooking
© Nigella Lawson, 2001, Hyperion
“Despite a move toward chic simplification, sometimes we
need a touch of vulgarity in our lives. This dessert certainly provides that.
The idea came from a dessert I had at Spago, the Los Angeles restaurant comprising
chocolate Bundt cake stuffed with raspberries and topped with crème
brûlée. This is my version: a light chocolate cake baked in a Bundt pan – that’s
to say, a turban-shaped one with a hole in the middle – its hole, once the
cake’s turned out and dampened with liqueur, filled with chopped walnuts with a
creamy coffee custard poured over; finally, imagine sugar sprinkled over and
that sugar set alight so that you’ve got a hard, crackle-glazed top (for which
you’ll need a small blowtorch). And funnily enough, although it is very much in
composition and appearance a swaggering pièce de résistance, it’s easy to make.
Just isolate the three separate tasks: the making of the cake, which is
infant-school easy; the making of the custard, which is so eggy it scarcely
takes 5 minutes; and the final torching to turn the coffee custard into café
crème brûlée.
Then – pa-dah!”
Serves 8
for the cake:
1 cup sugar
Scant a cup cake flour
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons cocoa powder
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 large eggs, separated, plus 2 more egg whites (from the yolks
you need for the café crème)
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
10-inch Bundt pan, oiled
for the café crème:
1 cup heavy cream
6 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons light brown sugar
1 tablespoon instant espresso powder
for the topping:
Approximately 12 teaspoons (i.e., 4 tablespoons) Tia Maria or rum
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon chopped walnuts
4 tablespoons sugar
Chef’s kitchen blowtorch
It makes sense to get on with the custard first. So, warm the
cream gently
in
a saucepan. Mix the yolks, sugar and espresso powder together in a bowl,
and pour the warm cream over this mixture, whisking to combine. Pour the mixture
back into the rinsed-out saucepan and cook over a medium heat, stirring
constantly, until it thickens; with this ratio of yolks to liquid, it won’t take
any time at all. Pour into a bowl, cover with wet baking parchment,
and leave to cool.
Get on with the cake as soon as you’ve made the custard. It, too, must cool
before assembly. (Indeed, you may well find it easier to make both cake and
custard a day in advance.) Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F, putting in a
baking sheet as you do. In a large bowl, mix together 3/4 cup of the sugar, the
flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a measuring cup, whisk
together the yolks, oil, water, and vanilla. Pour over the dry ingredients
gradually, beating to combine.
In another bowl, whisk the 6 egg whites until they are foamy and forming
soft
peaks. Add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, a spoonful at a time, still whisking,
till the whites are thick and shiny and hold their shape. Briskly
beat a large
dollop of whites into the cake mixture to lighten it, then, a third
at a time,
fold in the remaining whites.
Pour the mixture into the oiled pan and place on the baking sheet in the
preheated oven. Bake for 40 minutes, by which time the cake should be springy
and coming away from the sides of the pan. Let the cake cool in its pan on a
rack for 25 minutes before turning it out.
Pour or sprinkle the Tia Maria – or rum – onto the top of the cake, letting
the
liqueur soak in after each teaspoon. Of course, you could use tablespoons or
just pour from the bottle, but you do want to make sure the cake’s moistened
rather than drenched.
When you are ready to serve, place the cake on a place with a lip – or an
almost-flat wide bowl – and fill the center with the walnuts. Pour the cold
custard into the remaining space in the center, letting it overflow a little
over the shoulders, so to speak, and the sides. Sprinkle the sugar, a little at
a time, so that it doesn’t soak in, on top of the cake, and use the blowtorch to
caramelize the top.
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