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Wives Tales-Eggplant
C. Winterle-Olson
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TABASCO brand Chipotle Pepper Sauce. Smoky flavor. Only available online.

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Friday, November 10, 2006
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Don't forget the candlelight!
 
Interior with Eggplants
Henri Matisse
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Grilled Eggplant Tart
  Chez Panisse Cooking
by Paul Bertolli with Alice Waters, 1988, Random House
For 8
In case
your immediate reaction is the same as mine (this sounds scrumptious!) and
then you see the “One 10-inch puff pastry tart shell” and are tempted to
dismiss the recipe altogether, please bear with me. Granted, chances are
none of us plan to make puff pastry in preparation for the upcoming 4th of
July holiday. Not to worry, we are flexible, are we not? And creative. There
are many options available to us, one of which, of course, is to purchase
frozen phyllo dough and proceed from there. Or we could resort to a normal
pâte
brisée. And since Chef Bertolli mentions pizza, why not? Boboli is not bad
at all, and we do have the excuse of the holiday. Whichever way you go,
please do not miss this excellent indulgence just because the recipe calls
for
puff pastry.
“This
tart captures the smokiness of the charcoal grill and the happy union of
Provençal flavors – eggplant, peppers, garlic, anchovies, and basil. Its
tart and salty accents pique the appetite and it makes a provocative first
course. The tart resembles a pizza, but is much lighter and crisper because
of the puff pastry crust. The pastry is treated like a large cracker with
the toppings added after the shell is baked and cooled. Assembled, it is
dressed at the last moment with sharp vinaigrette.
The shell itself is versatile and can support a number of different
toppings, for instance, a warm stew of caramelized onions cooked with fresh
thyme, vinegar, chopped parsley, olives, and eggs. Or leftover
ratatouille,
provided it is not too juicy, makes a colorful topping and is well matched
with the basil, chopped egg and anchovy garnishes.
Make the puff pastry ahead of time and refrigerate or freeze the shell. Bake
it while you prepare the other ingredients. Be sure to let the shell cool
well before you assemble the tart.”
8 Japanese
eggplants (1 pound, 4 ounces)
4 tablespoons pure olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 sweet red bell pepper (8 ounces)
4 salt-packed anchovies
1 large egg
2 shallots (2 ounces), finely diced
1 small clove garlic, very finely chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil for garnish
Prepare a
charcoal fire.
Cut the
eggplants lengthwise into 1/4-inch slices. Lay the slices on a baking sheet,
brush them with olive oil, and lightly salt and pepper them on both sides.
While the fire is still quite hot, grill the pepper until the skin is well
blistered and blackened all over, turning it often to expose all sides to
the heat. When the pepper is well charred, remove it from the grill and
place it in a sealed container to steam. This will help loosen the skin from
the flesh. When the fire has burned down a bit, grill the eggplants, being
careful not to blacken the flesh. This should take about 2 minutes per side.
Remove the
bones from the anchovies and soak the filets in a small bowl in several
changes of cold water for 15 minutes. Put the egg in a small saucepan, cover
with cold water, bring to the boil, then immediately turn the heat off. Let
the egg stand in the hot water for 8 minutes. Remove, cool the egg in cool
water, and peel it.
Combine the
shallots, garlic, and vinegar in a small bowl. Add a pinch of salt and
pepper and mix well to dissolve the salt. Add the extra virgin olive oil,
stirring constantly.
Remove the
pepper from the container and peel off the blackened skin. Cut the pepper in
half over a small bowl, saving any juices. Strain the juices into the
vinaigrette through a sieve, to capture the seeds. Cut away the stem and
seeds and cut the pepper into 1/4-inch strips. Toss the peppers with a
little of the vinaigrette and set aside. Drain and squeeze the anchovies and
cut them lengthwise into 1/8-inch strips. Chop the egg coarse.
Assembling the
tart: Just before you intend to serve the tart, lay the sliced eggplant,
slightly overlapping, on the puff pastry tart. Next, distribute the
anchovies and peppers evenly. Using your hands, sprinkle the vinaigrette and
shallots over the vegetables. Garnish with the chopped egg and basil. Serve
immediately with a bowl of olives and chilled Bandol rosé.
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