Chocolate Amatller Barcelona Centenario
Alphonse Mucha
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"To cook is to
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Bittersweet
Chocolate Roulade
"There's nothing better than a good friend, except a good
friend with CHOCOLATE."
Linda Grayson, "The Pickwick Papers"
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Chocolate Amatller Barcelona 1899
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Cook's Illustrated
Caffe Espresso
Ceccanti
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The Cake Bible
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Bittersweet Chocolate Roulade
By Kay Rentschler
Cook’s Illustrated,
November & December 2000
 
Cooks Illustrated
2000, Boston Common Press
“We
created a cake that is easy to roll but still moist,
tender,
and full of
chocolate flavor.”
“Objects
that sweep and spiral inward enchant the eye. I think of seashells,
chignons, sweet rolls – each demure and voluptuous at the same time. Equally
if not more appealing are spirals of sponge cake rolled around a creamy
filling.
A chocolate sponge cake roll – or roulade – is doubtless the most
satisfying and versatile of this genre, its tender bittersweet shell home to
a full spectrum of
fillings, from pale creams to rich, dark mousses.”
Serves 8 to 10
“We
suggest that you make the filling and ganache first, then make the cake
while the ganache is setting up. Or, if you prefer, the cake can be baked,
filled, and
rolled – but not iced – then wrapped in plastic and refrigerated
for up to 24 hours.” [Directions on how to create the ‘branched’ look of
a bûche de Noël are contained
in Cook’s Illustrated 2000.]
6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped fine
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into two pieces
2 tablespoons cold water
1/4 cup cocoa, sifted, plus 1 tablespoon for unmolding
1/4 cup (about 1 1/4 ounces) all-purpose flour,
plus more for baking sheet
1/8 teaspoon salt
6 large eggs, separated
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 recipe Espresso-Mascarpone Cream (recipe follows)
1 recipe Dark Chocolate Ganache (recipe follows)
1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat
oven to 400 degrees
[F]. Spray 12 by 17 1/2-inch jelly roll or half sheet
pan with nonstick
cooking spray, cover pan bottom with parchment paper, and
spray
parchment with nonstick cooking spray; dust surface with flour and
tap
out excess.
2. Bring 2 inches water to simmer in small saucepan over medium heat.
Combine chocolate, butter, and water in small heatproof bowl and cover
tightly with plastic wrap. Set bowl over pan, reduce heat to medium-low,
and
heat until butter is almost completely melted and chocolate pieces are
glossy, have lost definition, and are fully melted around the edges, about
15 minutes. (Do not stir or let water boil under chocolate.) Remove bowl
from pan, unwrap, and stir until smooth and glossy. While chocolate is
melting, sift 1/4 cup
cocoa, flour, and salt together into small bowl and
set aside.
3. In bowl of standing mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat yolks
at medium-high speed until just combined, about 15 seconds. With mixer
running, add half the sugar. Continue to beat, scraping down sides of
bowl
as necessary until yolks are pale yellow and mixture falls in thick
ribbon
when whisk is lifted, about 8 minutes. Add vanilla and beat to
combine,
scraping down bowl once, about 30 seconds. Turn mixture
into medium bowl;
wash mixer bowl and whisk attachment and dry
with paper towels. (If you have
2 mixer bowls, leave yolk mixture in
mixer bowl; wash and dry whisk
attachment, and use second bowl
in step 4.)
4. In clean bowl with clean whisk attachment, beat whites and cream of
tartar at medium speed until foamy, about 30 seconds. With mixer
running,
add about 1 teaspoon sugar; continue beating until soft peaks
form, about 40
seconds. Gradually add remaining sugar and beat until
whites are glossy and
supple and hold stiff peaks when whisk is lifted,
about 1 minute longer. Do
not overbeat (if whites look dry and granular
they are overbeaten). While
whites are beating, stir chocolate into yolks.
With rubber spatula, stir one
quarter of whites into chocolate mixture to
lighten it. With a balloon
whisk,
fold in remaining whites until almost no
streaks remain. Sprinkle dry
ingredients over top and fold in quickly but
gently with balloon whisk.
5. Pour batter into prepared pan; using an offset icing spatula and
working quickly, even surface and smooth batter into pan corners. Bake until
center
of cake springs back when touched with finger, 8 to 10 minutes,
rotating
pan halfway through baking. Cool in pan on wire rack for
5 minutes.
6. While cake is cooling, lay clean kitchen towel over work surface
and
sift remaining tablespoon cocoa over towel; with hands, rub cocoa into
towel.
Run paring knife around perimeter of baking sheet to loosen
cake.
Invert
cake onto towel and peel off parchment.
[Roll and fill cake as follows; Cook’s Illustrated 200 contains
illustrations]:
7. Roll cake – towel and all – into a jelly roll shape. Cool
for 15 minutes,
then unroll cake and towel. Using an offset spatula,
immediately spread
the filling evenly over the surface of the cake, almost
to the edges. Roll
the cake up gently but snugly around the filling. Set a
large sheet of
parchment paper on an overturned rimmed baking sheet and set
cake
seam-side down on top.
[Trim and ice cake as follows; Cook’s
Illustrated 200 contains illustrations]:
Trim both ends on the diagonal.
Reserve the slices if making a yule log.
Spread the ganache over the roulade
with a small icing spatula. Use a fork
to make wood-grain striations on the
surface of the ganache before the
icing has set [or swirl as desired].
Refrigerate baking sheet with cake,
uncovered, to slightly set
icing, about 20 minutes.
8. Carefully slide 2 wide metal spatulas under cake and transfer to
serving
platter. Cut into slices and serve.
Espresso-Mascarpone Cream
Makes about 1
1/4 cups
1/4 cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons whole espresso beans, finely ground
(about 1 tablespoon ground)
3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
8 1/4 ounces mascarpone cheese (generous 1 cup)
Bring cream to simmer in small saucepan over high heat. Off
heat, stir in espresso and powdered sugar; transfer mixture to medium bowl
and cool slightly. Whisk in mascarpone until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap
and refrigerate until ready to use.
Dark Chocolate Ganache
Makes about 1
1/2 cups
“Rose
Levy Beranbaum, author of The Cake Bible (William Morrow, 1988), acquainted
us with the technique of making ganache in a food processor, a
method that
beats all others, in our opinion, for ease and consistency. If your
kitchen
is cool and the ganache becomes too cold and stiff to spread, set the
bowl over a saucepan containing simmering water, then stir briefly until
smooth and icinglike.”
1/4 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 ounces high-quality semisweet or
bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 tablespoon Cognac
Microwave cream and butter in measuring cup on high until
bubbling,
about 1 1/2 minutes. (Alternatively, bring to simmer in small
saucepan
over medium-high heat.) Place chocolate in bowl of food processor
fitted
with steel blade. With machine running, gradually add hot cream and
Cognac through feed tube and process until thickened, about 3 minutes.
Transfer ganache to medium bowl and let stand at room temperature 1
hour,
until spreadable (ganache should have consistency of soft icing).
Featured Archive Recipes:
Bûche
de Noël
Bûche de Noël,
Chocolate-Orange
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