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WB01419_1.gif (2752 bytes)    La Belle Cuisine

The Spice Cabinet...
Your Webmistress, Up Close and Personal

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Fine Cuisine with Art Infusion

"To cook is to create. And to create well...is an act of integrity, and faith."

 

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“When poets… write about food it is usually celebratory. Food as the
thing-in-itself, but also the thoughtful preparation of meals, the serving
of meals, meals commonly shared: a sense of sacred in the profane.”

~ Joyce Carol Oates


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(February 2003)

There are a lot of surprises in Mississippi. In some circles this widely misunderstood state has the unfortunate and undeserved reputation of being backward. Period. What I say to that is, “People, please! Do not be so
willing to display your ignorance…”

A gentleman with whom I used to work made the comment (subsequent to
a phone conversation), “She said she is attending college in Jackson, MS. Who does she think she’s kidding?!?!? As if there could be a college in
Jackson, MS. Gimme a break...”

 Well. I gave him a break. A mouthful, is what I gave him. The preface to our conversation was a list of institutions of higher learning in Jackson: Millsaps College, Belhaven College (Eudora Welty lived right across the street), Jackson State University, Tougaloo College, Mississippi College (in Clinton, just a hop, skip and a jump)… OKAY? And then I waxed eloquent about
what comes to mind when I think of Mississippi. Now hear this. I do not
think “illiterate, barefoot and pregnant.” Get a grip, y'all. Southern is not synonymous with stupid. I think of William Faulkner, Eudora Welty, Willie Morris, John Grisham, Tennessee Williams, Walker Percy, Beth Henley, Ellen Gilchrist, Barry Hannah, Craig Claiborne, Leontyne Price, B. B. King, Faith Hill, Jim Henson, Sela Ward, James Earl Jones, Oprah Winfrey and… The list is LONG. Artists, musicians, writers, and on and on and on.

 Yeah. Mississippi.

So let’s talk food in Mississippi. It ain't jes chittlins, okay, although I do
just happen to know where you can get some if that is what you're looking for. Jackson (the capital city) is definitely an eating-out town. Restaurants, restaurants everywhere. Some much better than others, of course. And
most seem to thrive. One thing about it, though. You had best not make
the spontaneous last-minute attempt to eat out on Friday or Saturday night,
unless you are prepared for a long wait and a great deal of frustration.

You might be expecting a good catfish restaurant (there are several, my personal favorite being Cock of the Walk, on the Reservoir), or perhaps outstanding barbecue or down home cookin’. Yes, there is all of that. And much, much more. Should you find yourself looking, we highly recommend an establishment called Bruno’s Eclectic Cuisine. You can expect nothing
less than a totally delightful experience. Seriously.
[We were shocked recently to find that Bruno's, alas, is no more. Go figure!]

If you are new to La Belle Cuisine, perhaps I should explain that our standards are high. We appreciate excellence in all forms, and expect to get our money’s worth. (Is that so unusual?) Both the Major and I have been around the block a couple of times. We are not “difficult” or demanding,
but we make no apologies for the fact that we expect nothing less than excellence in atmosphere, food and service when we dine out. Why
should we?

And a side note here: The Major and I were looking for a relaxing evening, first and foremost (long story). Saturday night, right, and Bruno’s was busy.
 Of course. I found out just by chance that they were working shorthanded in the kitchen due to illness. Pressure to the max. We, the customers, would never have known it. This is Important! No matter what problems a business establishment is experiencing, the customer should not be exposed to the stress level going on behind the scenes. It should look easy. And it did. Everything flowed smoothly. Since I know what it is  like to be "in the
weeds" in a professional kitchen, I think that good acting needs to be added
to the long list of virtues required to be a fine restaurant employee, be it in
the front or the back of the house.

We wound up, quite by accident, doing the tapas thing, so to speak. Lots
and lots and lots of appetizers. And the best seafood chowder I have yet
to encounter anywhere. The couple at the next table told us it was not to
be missed. They were correct. Perfect flavor, every bite laden with fresh seafood. Mercy! Somehow we just never managed to get around to an
entrée (maybe next time - I was eyeing the Shrimp Pad Thai). This does
NOT mean that I was willing to bypass dessert and coffee, of course. Not
on your life!


So, what happened?!?!? How could such a fine, successful restaurant close?

(Courtesy of Jackson Free Press January 13, 2004)

"...Then a dream came true in February 2001. Bruno’s Eclectic Cuisine, in the Quarter on Lakeland Drive, became known for its delicious food and sophisticated atmosphere. Unfortunately Bruno’s closed at the end of 2003—family and health priorities made this difficult, emotional decision a must...
One of [the] establishments where Bruno had worked as executive chef was the Governor’s Mansion where he fed the Kirk Fordice family for three-and-a-half
years. Now, beginning with the inauguration of Haley Barbour, Bruno again
takes over as executive chef. We talk there in the kitchen where the only big
change will be a new floor... Bruno said about his return to the executive
mansion, 'This is vacation for me, after the restaurant.' ”

 

Bruno's Arroz con Pollo

Yield: 4 servings

8 chicken thighs
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
3 clove garlic, chopped
1 cup long-grain rice
1 cup low-salt chicken broth
1/2 cup chopped roasted red pepper
1 (14.5-oz.) can plum tomatoes, chopped
3/4 cup canned black beans, rinsed
1 (15-oz.) can baby corn, drained
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sour cream, (for garnish)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 avocado, sliced

Spice Rub
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Spice Rub: In medium bowl or spice bag, mix red pepper flakes, ground cumin, chili powder, salt and ground black pepper.
Add chicken and rub spices into all sides of chicken. Cover and refrigerate overnight or for least 1 hour.
Over medium heat in heavy 4-quart pot with cover, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. Sauté chicken, turning frequently, until golden brown on all sides, about
5 minutes. Remove chicken and set aside.
Add remaining tablespoon of oil to casserole dish or paella pan. Mix in onion and garlic; sauté for 3 minutes, or until translucent. Stir in rice and cook for
2 minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in chicken broth, roasted peppers, tomatoes with juice, black beans, corn and salt. Bring to simmer; add chicken back to casserole. Cover and reduce heat to low; cook for 20 minutes. Turn chicken and cook for another 20 minutes, or until juices run clear when thigh is pierced with tip of sharp knife and rice is tender. Add cilantro; transfer to serving dish and garnish with sour cream, cilantro sprigs and avocado slices. Serve immediately.
 

Until next time, take care, be well. Live with passion. Enjoy!

Michele


Major Collaboration (New Orleans)
Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans?

"It seems to me that our three basic needs, for food and security and love, are so mixed and mingled and entwined that we cannot straightly think of one without the others. So it happens that when I write of hunger, I am really writing about love and the hunger for it, and warmth and the love of it and the hunger for it… and then the warmth and richness and fine reality of hunger satisfied… and it is all one."
 - M.F.K. Fisher, from The Art of Eating

 

 

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